You can then use the app to link your Android device to the used DSLR and find the shutter count.
Canon-backed outlets and repair shops will be able to supply you with the info, but this may not be a feasible way of checking the camera before actually purchasing it. You can also try Magic Lantern to get access to this elusive little number.Īlternatively, you can also download the DSLR Controller app for $10.
It's available on both Mac and Windows.įor a used Canon camera body, shutter count options will be a bit slimmer. Interpreting this data is as simple as uploading the photo to one of many third-party websites or downloadable apps and waiting for the results. If the camera is a Nikon or a Pentax, you will find the shutter count in the EXIF metadata that comes attached to each photo taken. If they aren't sure, you've got a couple of fact-checking options, depending on the brand of the camera. To see if the camera that you're considering makes the grade, ask the person or company that you're buying from. The biggest one has a black plastic tab on the connector that needs to be flipped up to release the ribbon cable.The original ratings of the camera will inform your eventual decision. Also there are 5 ribbon cable connections to disconnect. When re-assembling, simply push them down into the socket to reconnect. I found the connectors (2x 2 pin, 1x 3 pin & 1x 4pin) easy to disconnect by placing my finger over the connector itself while pulling upwards on the wire as close as possible to the connector, levering them out. Bottom board: 3 screws, the one towards the rear of the camera is the short one. Bottom plate: 6 screws, one may be covered by a black plastic tab.ġ1. There is also a bundle of grey cables connected to the back of the main board.ġ0. There is a 4 pin black cable at the top left of the board – I needed to use a razor to wedge and pry it out. 5 of the remaining ribbon cables have the plastic pop-up release, the final one needs to be pulled out. Two of the ribbon cables are a pull-off connector, with sticky tape on top. Main board: Remove the screws, one of which is hidden beneath the wide ribbon cable at the bottom of the board (second from right). The remaining 2 short silver screws in the grip side.ĩ.
CF door: Actually I am not sure if this needs to be removed, I removed it anyway.
I wasn’t able to get enough grip using tweezers and had to use a razor to pry/lever the connector off.Ĩ.
On the back: a two pin connector (red/black wires) is connected to the main board disconnect this. 2 more in the indent between the grip and lens mount. Front casing: On the grip side: 2 short silver screws (of the 4). The connectors have pop-up tabs to release the ribbon cable.ĥ. Before you can detach the rear cover, two ribbon cables will need to be disconnected. Three screws on the bottom of the camera, note the one next to the plug on the bottom is shorter than the other two. the single silver screw goes to the left of the CF slot cover. Rear casing & LCD screen: Remove all screws: two long ones on either side of the eyepiece. For reference the two long silver ones are at the top.Ĥ. Rubber flaps/aux covers: Remove the three screws. Time & date battery: Lift up the rubber flaps covering the aux inputs, remove the single screw at the bottom and pull out the battery holder.ģ. Rubber grips: Just stick a fingernail in there and pull them all off.Ģ. The Canon 5D Mark II Parts Catalog (Google can dig it up) is handy to refer to while going through this guide.ġ. I also referred back to the timelapse images I was taking with my webcam when I was unsure. This wasn’t visual enough! I ended up just putting all of the components clockwise in order of dissassembly around my desk with the screws placed in their original location, so that I knew when re-assembling to just work anti-clockwise. I had a container with lots of compartments and started by writing down a description of what I was putting into each one. There are a lots of different sized screws but all of the holes look the same. Note: Have a method of recording what goes where. Keep yourself grounded at all times to prevent static discharge from turning your camera into a brick.Ĭaution: Static discharge isn’t the only thing that will kill your camera! Slipping and sticking the end of the screwdriver through the main board, kinking a ribbon cable or scratching the exposed sensor will all have the same effect. Although the majority of the steps are simply undoing screws or unplugging ribbon cables you are working in proximity to sensitive electronics.